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Post Info TOPIC: C Panel Alarm Buzzer continous


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C Panel Alarm Buzzer continous


I have purchase a Beta system with Dual helms, one with deluxe C panel and the other helm using the new D panel.   I have installed both panels and used the provided wire harness. After engine starts all warning lights go off, tach, temp and volts gauges are working however the C Panel only has a continuous alarm buzzer going off.  The D Panel is set for single engine and does not have any alarms that continue.  

At present the C and D panels have additional set of wires for connecting a second alternator that is not set up.  Yellow/Green pin 12 and Blue/yellow pin 13.

 

1.) would this be cause of alarm?

2.) What signals/voltages/connection to second alternator are needed for these two pins?

 

thanks

Gordan



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Gordan


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Hello Gordon and welcome to the forum.

This has been a bit of a head scratcher for me so I went back to the factory for help. Apparently your engine was supplied through the west coast USA distributor and I do not know what alternator was fitted as this was done there. Possibly a Balmar?

Here is some working information from my electrical guru at the factory;

 Deluxe panel has 2nd alternator connections:

 

Yellow/Green pin 12 for connection to 2nd alternator D+ Blue/yellow pin 13 for connection to 2nd alternator B+

 If these wires are disconnected from engine at the moment, I think we can rule these out as causing the deluxe panel alarm to sound

 

 As an initial check, I would remove the purple wire from deluxe panel 11 way connection 5, tie back & insulate.  This is just in case the engine end of this wire is now touching engine body & no longer tied back.  Removing this as a possible reason for panel alarm sounding by disconnecting purple will not affect engine as the wire is spare / unused.

 

 If this does not sort the issue, perhaps the alternator thinks start battery is fully charged so is beginning to switch off?  If so the red charge fail lamp will probably be ever so slightly glowing.  If engine speed is increased the should allow alternator Voltage to increase enough to switch alarm off.  If not, start battery Voltage needs to be noted (engine off) & then compared to Voltage with engine on, reporting results back to Beta.

 

 Hope this helps

Please let me know how you get on.

Stanley

 

 



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The second alternator is a Balmar AT-series. It is not hooked up at moment.

B+ sounds like the Battery + side. I am not certain with D+ means though. Connections are Stator out, External Field and battery positive and ground.

I get back to vessel on Thursday and will check out the purple wire connection.

Thanks
Gordan

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Gordan


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B+ is battery positive. This is the output from the alternator to the battery
D+ is the switched 12V from the ignition to excite the alternator.

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OK. I made sure that purple number 5 wire did not connect up to anything. This got rid of the alarm. Problem one solved.

I hooked up the following:

    Yellow/Green pin 12 for connection to 2nd alternator D+.  This was ignition on voltage that basically connected this wire to 2nd alternator B+ Battery.  Key off - no voltage/connection.  Key on - B+ equivalent.

    Blue/yellow pin 13 connection to 2nd alternator B+, or battery plus.  This signal is always hot as it is connected to battery terminal.

1) No warning light for 2nd alternator if key on but engine turned off.  Assumed should be on like 1st alternator light.

2) Engine running,  no lights (other than green) and no alarms.

3) With engine running, turn off key.  No lights. No alarms.

 

Is pin 12 correct?

 

Thanks

Gordan

 

 



-- Edited by Gordan on Thursday 22nd of June 2017 10:54:33 PM



-- Edited by Gordan on Friday 23rd of June 2017 12:54:24 AM

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Gordan


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Simple alternator test:

Parts needed:

·         12v lamp in holder with wires

Procedure:

·         Engine off

·         Ignition off

·         Connect one side of the lamp to alternator B+

·         Disconnect all wires from D+

·         Connect other lamp wire to alternator D+ (note lamp should come on)

·         Start engine and rev to 1200rpm, check lamp goes out

 

If the test above does not work (either lamp fails to come on or fails to go out) it will be a faulty alternator.

 

If the test works as described the fault is in the engine wiring.

 

Attached is some simple diagrams showing how a second alternator should be wired.

 

 



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Thanks for the schematics. Here is the basics of the two connections needed for Balmar regulators if others are wanting to hook up a second Balmar alternator to either the D or C panels.

Yellow/Green pin 12 for connection to 2nd alternator referred to as D+
This is the grounding side of the warning circuit. If this wire is grounded then the alarm will sound. If open circuit then the alarm goes off.

If you are installing either a Balmar MC-612 dual or MC-614 regulator then the yellow/green wire would connect up to the Balmar regulator "Dash Lamp" pin. When any of the failure conditions occur, then alarm will be activated on the panels.
- The MC-612 is pin 20 for Dash Lamp
- The MC-614 is pin 17 for Dash Lamp

The default configuration of the Balmar regulators will have the alarm active for first few seconds after engine starts. The alarms settings will clear after regulator is fully functioning in about 5 seconds.

Blue/yellow pin 13 for connection to 2nd alternator referred to as B+
This is the voltage level measurement connection. Connect this to the positive terminal of the battery bank being charged or the positive power distribution bus that this specific circuit is charging.

As a reminder to readers you will want to keep the two alternator powered systems separated from each other. As example if Alt 1 is charging engine battery and Alt 2 is charging house bank, DO NOT connect these together through a switch or relay while engine is running and both alternators are producing power. The regulators get confused and you can end up in an over voltage situation that can damage batteries or electronics.

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Gordan
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