Beta 35 Alternator Wiring

Rsail · Newbie

Beta 35 Alternator Wiring

Farron · Senior Member

Hello Rsail,

The Balmar 6 series is an isolated ground alternator. The case of the alternator must be grounded to the engine block. Use a 6 AWG cable for this purpose.

The large red wire from the starter post to the alternator B+ post must be upsized to accommodate the higher amp alternator. Use a 6 AWG cable for this purpose. If the B+ post is mounted on the back side of the alternator, make sure the B+ post has clearance with the heat exchanger tank and will not accidentally ground to the metal tank.

I will assume that you are using a Balmar regulator that is compatible with your new alternator.

The black/blue wire should be connected to the white stator wire from the alternator or if available directly to the regulator terminal post designated Tachometer out. If the regulator has a Tachometer out terminal post use it.

The switched brown wire would originate at the key switch AC terminal. If you wish to install a double throw switch follow the Balmar instructions to the letter.

The brown/yellow wire should connect to the diode trio post (D+ post) of the alternator. Some Balmar regulators have a Dash Lamp terminal post on the regulator. If so I would follow the Balmar instructions regarding the wiring of the dash lamp.

You will not need a fuse on the brown wire from the AC terminal of the switch. Power to the key switch is fused at the engine.

Good luck!

Rsail · Newbie

Farron:

Thank you for the reply.

I will be using Blue Seas terminal boots over the pos/neg connections. Will this satisfy the pos. rear post proximity to my exchanger?

The brown/yellow tracer wire from Balmar alternator D+ to Beta C panel battery lamp was my concern. Looking at the gauge wiring there is also a brown/yellow jumper to a "Detail A" junction block. I don't know what this "Detail A" block is about from the manual schematic? So from your reply I trust this doesn't connect the D+ terminal to ground with use of the brown/green lamp wire?

One other note was that the alternator mounting saddle on the engine has a metric M8 bolt holding the pivot for alternator. On my engine I note this bolt is slightly undersized in "diameter" and causes the alternator to have a slight movement. Upsizing to a standard 3/8 bolt won't fit and bushing will be difficult. Will this be a problem?

Farron · Senior Member

Hello Rsail,

The positive post on the alternator and the heat exchanger should have at least a 1/4 air gap. Do not depend on an insulator to provide a mechanical separation between the Bat + post and the heat exchanger.

We offer a Balmar Series 6 alternator with a side mounted Bat + terminal that eliminates this clearance issue.

Remember: Regardless of the installation, the battery switch to the engine must be turned off when servicing either the alternator or the heat exchanger.

The Brown/yellow wire runs from the panel warning light to the D+ post of the alternator. A second brown/yellow jumper wire runs from the panel warning light to the warning buzzer panel that is mounted on the backside of the "C" Panel. This is not a ground.

There is no brown/green wire in the Beta wire harness.

The standard alternator mount is bushed and spaced for an 8mm bolt. Balmar offers split bushings to allow for an 8mm bolt to be used.

A 10mm bolt can be used if the 8 mm bushings/spacers are removed and the correct 10 mm spacers are installed. The correct spacers will depend on the drive pully used.

Please e-mail or phone me if you want more complete direction in this matter.