I'm interested in buying a boat with the BF2803 engine. However, I'm not finding much documentation on that particular model.I'm trying to figure out when they were manufactured and if replacement parts will be hard to find. It was suppose to have been installed new around 2007. It is painted white, not the usual red color. This leads me to believe it may be a rebuilt one. Any one here knows anything about the BF2803?
Welcome to the forum. The BF2803 is an excellent engine but we never sold many as it was a very expensive to produce. We did however, also supply some with white epoxy paint to special order. If you can supply the Woc# (there should be a sticker on the engine and in the owners manual, I can provide the history of the engine. The Woc# is the works order card # and will start with K. Failing this we can also identify the engine from the serial number. All parts are available at reasonable pricing because many of the marine parts (such as raw water pumps, heat exchanger O rings, mounts etc are used on other Beta Marine propulsion engines. Kubota also have all the engine parts available.
Thanks for the fast response. Currently I am 300 Miles inland so I don't have access to the engine. But it's good to know that you think highly of that model.
I will try to get the numbers off of the engine at a later date.
what is the thermostat part # for this engine? It seems to hit 210 F too easily and sit there... doesnt get hotter than that (thus far) and will cool off if I drop RPM's to 1500 or less.... heats up at 2000 RPM's.
Xeon, are you sure that your temperature gauge is reading correctly?
If not, please check the gauge against an infra-red temp gun before attempting any repairs.
The thermostat is a standard Kubota thermostat as used on the F2803 engine and the V1903 and 2203. From your description of the problem I want you to check the tubestack first. It is possible that the sleeve around the tubestack has slipped and this can cause the exact same symptoms that you describe.
I have attached a photo of a tube stack similar to the one in your engine. The outer tube may have moved and this will then restrict the coolant flow. The gap at each end where you can see the inner tubes, needs to be the same a If the tube has slipped, it is a simple matter to clean the tube and then a little solder job to resecure the outer tube in place. You will need some heat exchanger O rings and possibly some M8 bonded seals to do this right.
I am 90% certain I know which bolt is the tube stack on the front of the engine... were is the one on the rear? or is it the 4 around the bit of tubing coming out at the rear?
The manual tends to have pics from the other 2 power plants =/
ALSO the reason i know that bolt is i was hoping it was the wasting zinc bolt alas it is not... where should I look for that at?
thanks again. Trying to get all the questions out i can think of before ripping things apart on the boat that is 200 miles away. heh.
#502 shows the end covers fitted to a tubestack. The arrow on the cardboard points to the zinc anode.
#503 shows the end cover and the tube stack. Note, the divider in the aft end cover fits into a slot at the end of the tube stack. The tubestack only goes one way. The tubestack will not come out of the manifold until the O rings have been removed and this process usually destroys the O rings. Don't forget to drain the coolant before you remove the tubestack.
